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Combine the warm water, yeast, and 1 tsp granulated sugar in a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Stir briefly and let stand for 5–8 minutes, until foamy and fragrant — if the mixture does not foam, the yeast is not active; start over with fresh yeast.
Add the warmed milk, 2 tbsp granulated sugar, salt, and softened butter to the yeast mixture and stir to combine. Add the flour and mix on low speed with the dough hook (or stir with a wooden spoon) until a shaggy dough forms, then increase to medium speed and knead for 5–6 minutes, until the dough is smooth, slightly tacky, and pulls cleanly away from the sides of the bowl. The dough will be softer than bread dough — do not add extra flour unless it is completely unworkable.
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