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Place the whole eggplants directly over a gas burner flame on high heat, turning with tongs every 3–4 minutes, until the skin is completely charred and blackened all over and the eggplants collapse and feel very soft when pressed, 15–20 minutes total. Alternatively, place them on a foil-lined baking sheet under a broiler set to high, turning every 5 minutes, until the skin is blistered and blackened and the flesh is completely tender, 20–25 minutes.
Transfer the charred eggplants to a cutting board and let them rest until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Peel away and discard all of the charred skin, then roughly chop or mash the flesh with a fork — the texture should be coarse and shaggy, not a smooth purée. Discard any large seed clusters if desired.
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