
This deeply savory soup is built on a double layer of mushroom flavor — dried shiitakes steeped until the soaking water turns deep amber, then combined with tender cremini mushrooms that brown at the edges before the broth even comes together. Fresh ginger, tamari, and white miso paste round everything out into a broth that tastes like it simmered all day, even though it comes together in well under an hour. Miso can be a sneaky source of gluten, so using a certified gluten-free white miso paste here is the key move, and tamari steps in for regular soy sauce to keep every drop of the broth safe. The rice noodles are cooked separately and rinsed before serving, which keeps them from going soft and starchy in the bowl. A small but important technique — dissolving the miso in a ladleful of hot broth before stirring it in — preserves its delicate, fermented depth without cooking it out. Each of the four servings gets a tangle of silky noodles, a generous pour of that rich, umami-loaded broth, and a scatter of fresh scallion greens on top. Optional chili oil and a drizzle of sesame oil at the finish let everyone dial up the heat and richness exactly how they like it.
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Place the dried shiitake mushrooms in a medium bowl and pour the 4 cups of boiling water over them. Let steep for 20 minutes, until the mushrooms are fully softened and the liquid is deep amber. Lift the mushrooms out, squeeze gently to release excess liquid back into the bowl, then thinly slice the caps, discarding any tough stems. Pour the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a separate container, leaving any grit behind; set both the sliced mushrooms and the strained liquid aside.
Heat the sesame oil in a large pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add the scallion whites and light greens and the grated ginger and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 2 minutes.
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