
This slow-braised Yucatecan pork is one of those dishes that fills the whole kitchen with an intoxicating, earthy-citrus aroma before it even hits the table. Bone-in pork shoulder is marinated overnight in a bold blend of achiote paste, fresh orange and lime juice, garlic, and warm spices like cinnamon, cumin, and cloves, then wrapped in banana leaves and braised low and slow until it shreds apart with almost no effort. The result is deeply savory, slightly tangy, and richly colored — the kind of taco filling that makes people ask for the recipe on the spot. Because the entire dish is built on naturally wheat-free ingredients — pork, citrus, spices, and corn tortillas — there's no need to swap anything out or hunt for specialty substitutes. The one thing worth double-checking is your achiote paste, since some brands can sneak in unexpected additives, so a quick label scan goes a long way. Served with quick-pickled red onions that you can make up to two weeks ahead, this recipe is as practical as it is impressive. It feeds six generously, making it a fantastic choice for a weekend dinner or a casual gathering where everyone builds their own plate.
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Make the pickled onions: Combine the red onion, white vinegar, water, salt, sugar, and dried oregano in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring until the salt and sugar dissolve, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat, transfer to a jar or bowl, and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour (or up to 2 weeks).
Make the marinade: Combine the achiote paste, orange juice, lime juice, white vinegar, garlic, cumin, oregano, black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, salt, and lard in a blender or food processor. Blend until completely smooth, about 1 minute.
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