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Char the eggplants directly over a gas burner on medium-high flame, turning with tongs every 3–4 minutes, until the skin is completely blackened and blistered all over and the eggplants feel very soft and collapsed when pressed, about 15–20 minutes total. Alternatively, place them on a foil-lined baking sheet under a broiler set to high, turning every 5 minutes, until the skin is charred and the flesh is completely tender, about 20–25 minutes.
Transfer the charred eggplants to a colander set over a bowl and let them rest until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Peel away and discard all of the charred skin, then roughly chop or mash the flesh with a fork — the texture should be coarse and fibrous, not a smooth purée. Discard any liquid that has collected.
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